SlinGS
Climbing slings are among the most versatile pieces of gear. Whether setting up anchors, extending protection, or securing gear - slings play a crucial role in ensuring safety and efficiency on any climb. A sling is a sewn or tied loop of strong, durable webbing. They typically come in 30, 60, 90, 120, 180 and 240cm lengths and are made from one of two materials: nylon or Dyneema (a.k.a. Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethylene).
Nylon Slings
- Pros: Durable, slightly stretchy (absorbs impact), affordable, easier to tie knots with
- Cons: Heavier and bulkier than Dyneema, absorbs water and can freeze in cold conditions
Dyneema Slings
- Pros: Lightweight, strong for its weight, water-resistant, more resistant to UV degradation
- Cons: Less abrasion-resistant than nylon, less stretchy (absorbs less impact), difficult to tie knots with, more expensive
What are they used for?
Extending Protection. When placing trad gear (cams, nuts), slings help reduce rope drag and prevent gear from being pulled out due to rope movement. Longer slings are useful on wandering routes where direct rope paths could create friction.
Building Anchors. Slings are crucial for equalising multiple anchor points when belaying from a ledge or setting up a top-rope anchor. Common anchor configurations include the sliding-X, quad, and pre-equalised knots.
Lassoing Natural Features. Slings can be wrapped around trees, rock horns, or boulders to create a quick and effective anchor without using traditional gear.
Personal Safety Tethers. Climbers use a sling as a personal anchor system (PAS) to clip into belay stations or rappel anchors.
Rappelling Backup. Slings can be used for a prusik knot backup during rappels or for rigging an anchor point when descending.
Tips & tricks
Avoid overloading Dyneema slings. Dyneema has low elasticity and doesn’t absorb impact forces. Never use it for direct falls! Instead, incorporate it into an anchor or as an extension.
Inspect regularly. Check slings for wear, fraying, or damage. Retire slings that show significant wear or have been involved in a high-impact load.
Store properly. Keep slings out of direct sunlight and away from chemicals that can degrade the fibers.
Choose the right length. Carrying a variety of sling lengths allows for flexibility in anchor building and gear extensions.
Avoid knots. Avoid tying knots in Dyneema slings as they can significantly weaken the material and can be impossible to untie. Instead, adjust sling length with loops when possible.
Use girth hitches sparingly. Girth hitching slings together can reduce their strength. Instead, use carabiners when linking slings.
More: sling connection test
